A taste of the Ionian Islands

sarahpainter2
Jun 9
5 min read

Located to the west of the mainland, Greece’s Ionian Islands which include Kefalonia, Lefkada and Zakynthos, have a distinct cuisine that’s been shaped by numerous historical influences. In Corfu, the second-largest isle in the archipelago, dining on freshly caught seafood offers a glimpse into the region’s storied past shaped by over 400 years of Venetian rule.

A wander around Corfu’s Old Town demonstrates its multitude of identities; within a few yards of the cricket pitch at Spianada Square, I encounter Napoleonic marble esplanades and a Regency-era mansion built to house the British High Commissioner before coming to the Old Fortress, which was constructed by the Venetians. I cross the stone moat — now filled with pleasure craft rather than vessels of war — and see the Greek national colors, blue and white, flying from the flagpole. I mention my interest in Greek history to the ticket officer of the fortress. He emphatically explains that Corfu is the only part of Greece that never came under Ottoman rule, pointing his finger to the heavens.

Corfu didn’t escape the reaches of the British Empire, however. It was occupied from 1815 — wrested from France after the Napoleonic Wars — until 1864, when the isle was transferred to a newly formed nation-state: Greece. One of the standout landmarks from the British era is Mon Repos, a palatial villa on a cliff surveying the glittering sea below.

With 258 acres of parkland, a maze of gravel pathways and an interior draped in pastel blues and genteel stucco, Mon Repos was a fitting summer residence for the new Greek royal family, who were gifted the palace in 1864. Prince Philip, the late Duke of Edinburgh and a member of the Greek monarchy, was born here in 1921.

As enjoyable as a morning stroll in the house and grounds is, I feel a prickle of heat on my top lip as the sun rises, as well as a pang of hunger. It’s two miles back to Corfu Town, so I pick out an esteemed taverna about halfway to break up the walk.

Traditional hotspot Avli (meaning “courtyard”) looks out over a lapping Garitsa Bay and the eucalyptus-dappled Anemomilos Grove. The menu includes some staples of Greek cuisine, including baked eggplant, rich tomato sauces and chewy calamari. However, it’s the creative presentation that earned Avli its reputation; an octopus tentacle is laid on a golden bed of fava puree, while wild greens are cooked up with peppers and parsley to make tsigareli — a spicy island specialty. Thanks to Corfu’s position on the Venetian spice route, ingredients like cinnamon, paprika, chili and pepper are found all over the island.

A standout on the menu is the signature dish of pork filet, served with sticky, caramelized kumquats. The sweet, tart citrus fruits are much loved in Corfu, and meals are typically washed down with a kumquat liqueur. I toast to Avli’s proprietors, brothers Christos and Vasilis Pappas, and continue my journey.

Ancient rites

To really understand Corfu and its food, one must delve into its rocky coastline, marshy lakes and forests of spire-like cypress trees. A short drive that serves up a selection of landscapes is the coast road south of Corfu Town, to the fishing village of Benitses.

After clearing Corfu Town’s suburbs, I reach the sea at Pontikonisi. Here, Corfu’s airport runway divides the Strait of Corfu from the grassy Halikiopoulou Lagoon, which in ancient times was Corfu’s primary port, but is now home to colonies of the endangered great egret. I pause for a while, watching the planes land — the rumble from the jets causing the egrets to spread their own wings.

Allowing my eyes to fall to the waterline, a postcard-perfect scene comes into view: the whitewashed Holy Monastery of Vlacherna, a modest chapel on its own islet that belies the gilded chandeliers and well-preserved wooden icons inside. A little farther down the coast road is the Achilleion Palace, a classically inspired pile built for a heartbroken Empress of Austria in 1891.

When I reach Benitses’s bay, framed by forested mountains, I go for dinner at Klimataria. It’s hard to miss — the four-story magnolia facade makes it stand out from the low-rise apartments that surround it. There are only 11 tables here, so booking in advance is recommended.

Nikos Bellos and his wife, Lily, opened the seafood-oriented Klimataria in 1997 and, like any Greek taverna worth its salt, it’s a family operation. Nikos handles the fresh fish and meats, while his wife oversees salads, vegetarian dishes and desserts. “We’re one of the first restaurants at the Corfu Town market every morning. Some fishmongers will even save their excellent produce for us”, Nikos and Lily’s son, Costas Bellos, proudly tells me.

He points to something on the menu described as “bianco”; a Corfiot blend of garlic, pepper, olive oil, potatoes and lemon, with fish. Or, he suggests I go for bourdeto, a paprika-laced fish stew originally hailing from the Adriatic coast of Italy and Croatia — an import of the Venetians. “Scorpion fish is ideal for these traditional recipes, which reflect freshness and simplicity”, explains Costas. Yet as this melting-pot meal reveals, Corfu has hidden depths.

On the silver screen

The Durrells in Corfu — the story of naturalist Gerald Durrell’s childhood on the isle — is, to me, the ultimate comfort watch. The villa where the series was filmed is a short distance north of Corfu Town, but the real Durrells’ house can be found in the pine-sprinkled village of Kalami on the island’s northeast corner.

Overlooking a topaz bay, The White House was the home of author Lawrence Durrell (the eldest brother) and his wife Nancy in the 1930s. Now, it’s an upscale restaurant, with a marble plaque in the shape of a book by the door detailing the building’s connection to the Durrells. Before crossing the threshold, I rent a kayak to paddle around some secluded nearby coves — that blue water is just too hard to resist.

Spearheaded by Michelin-awarded chef Lefteris Lazarou, The White House is one of a few eateries on Corfu that has its own fishing boat for sourcing the day’s specials. The a-la-carte options have a touch of modernity: flank steak tacos sit comfortably beside quinoa salad with shrimp, as well as Corfiot classics.Sous chef Kyriakos Zapris sits down with me as I sip a dewy glass of robola — a floral white wine produced on Corfu’s Theotoky Estate. “Corfiot cuisine is unique due to its blend of influences from Venetian, French, British and Greek culinary traditions,” he explains. Glancing over a menu where yuzu gel accompanies crab, and ouzo jelly is paired with squid, I ask Zapris for his favorite traditional Corfiot dish.

“Pastitsada — it’s a tender beef stew in a fragrant tomato sauce, with plenty of warm spices like cinnamon and cloves, served over pasta. We cook it low and slow, allowing the flavors to infuse.” I’m tempted, but I’m in the mood for fish. Kyriakos smiles and says both are a good choice: “When you sit down to either meal, you’re not just eating

— you’re experiencing something deeply rooted in tradition, with a twist of something extraordinary.”

Later that day, I look out over the mainland, Kyriakos’ words resonating in my head. With bountiful seas and soil, a distinctive landscape and a cuisine that has maintained a fierce identity of its own, it seems Corfu has always been doing something extraordinary.